Because of the recent Visit, and Progress across Canada of the Wonder-working Icon of the Theotokos of Pochaiv, it was necessary to make a personal, private, and unofficial visit to the Ukrainian Church, in order to express gratitude for this blessing. The occasion for this visit coincided with a celebration of the birth-day of Metropolitan VOLODYMYR. Therefore, accompanied by Archpriest Oleg Kirillov, Dean of Ontario, and Protodeacon Nazari Polataiko, Episcopal Secretary, I departed Ottawa on the evening of 20 November, and we all arrived via Frankfurt just after mid-day on Saturday, 21 November. We were met at the Borispil Aeroport by Archpriest Nicholas Danylevych, who brought us by van to the Kyiv Caves Lavra. Protodeacon Nazari and I stayed at the Lavra, and Archpriest Oleg Kirillov stayed at a nearby hotel. After un-packing, and settling, there was an orientation lunch at the Metropolitanate, followed by some free time. In the evening, there was a formal, private meeting with His Beatitude, Metropolitan VOLODYMYR at his office. We presented some gifts from Canada, and we immediately came to the point of this visit : we expressed our gratitude that the Wonder-working Icon of the Theotokos of Pochaiv had been blessed to visit Canada recently. This was followed by some conversation about the good effects of the recent Visit of the Wonder-working Icon of the Theotokos of Pochaiv. His Beatitude indicated that similar experiences of healings, and of repentance on the part of many, were shown when the Icon visited Moscow, and then various parts of Ukraine. This is the period of celebrating the 450^th anniversary of the arrival of this Icon in Pochaiv. This was followed by supper with His Beatitude, and the close of the day’s programme.

Sunday Liturgy was concelebrated by Metropolitan VOLODYMYR, Metropolitan AGAFANGEL (of Odessa), Bishop ALEXANDER of Pereyaslav-Khmelnytskyy, and me, with the Greeting at 0900 hrs. We served in the Church of All Saints, adjacent to the site of the Holy Resurrection Cathedral, which is to be built over the next several years. The Temple of All Saints is a log-built Temple. It is being constructed in Ukrainian style, and it will be very large. During the Divine Liturgy, Metropolitan VOLODYMYR requested that I ordain a deacon, which was done. Such ordinations by guests are not uncommon, since they “cement relations” between our Churches. After the Liturgy, we toured the already-constructed Press-centre. Then, after Dinner at the old Metropolitanate, our group went to visit the new Monastery of the Annunciation in Eastern Kyiv, under the leadership of Archimandrite Varlaam. There is already considerable development in the construction of this Monastery, which is to have two different, but proximate sites : one for men, and one for women. This Monastery gives witness in a newer area of Kyiv, where there are few other Churches. The Monastery is blessed with the presence of many relics, and a wonder-working copy of the Icon of the Theotokos of Tinos (Greece). It was pointed out that in the Kyiv Patriarchate Cathedral of St Vladimir, one can see, and venerate the Relics of the Great Martyr Barbara, and of St Macarii, Metropolitan of Kyiv. Afterwards, we returned to the Lavra for the evening. In the early evening, there was offered a dinner with Metropolitan VOLODYMYR in the Formal Trapeza of the Residence. This was in traditional style, with, of course, singing both of the Many Years, and Folk Songs. Later in the meal arrived Archbishop HILARION from Moscow. He had just returned from China, and he gave to the Bishops (with others present) a summary of his recent visit there, and the attempts to enable the re-establishment of the Orthodox Church in China in a legal manner. He noted that the Roman Catholic Church has such a status. Until now, China does not permit a legal ordination of Chinese Orthodox priests, because the Chinese-born candidates would be ordained abroad by foreign clergy. There are, of course, political elements involved beyond the simple ecclesiastical details. The whole meal, with its toasts and speeches, concerned itself with the fatherly example, and leadership of Metropolitan VOLODYMYR. Even those who see that sometimes mistakes occur are ready to praise his overall leadership, and his personal example. Some suggest that because of our dependency on such personalities, we have a weakness. Others would counter that the supposed weakness is compensated for by the sincere love of and for the actual leaders, not just principles, and abstract philosophical ideas.

On Monday, 23 November, there was a concelebration with Metropolitan VOLODYMYR in the Trapenznaya Church of the Kyiv Caves Lavra, to celebrate his 74^th birth-day, beginning with the Greeting at 0900 hrs, as usual. Most of the Holy Synod of Ukraine were present, with the addition of Archbishop HILARION and me. It was Archbishop HILARION who gave the Homily. At the conclusion of the Liturgy, we gave His Beatitude the Archdiocesan Medal of St Tikhon. Because he is a collector of writings by and about him, we presented to him two copies of works of Taras Shevchenko, published in Ukrainian in Canada in 1952. After taking dinner briefly at the Brotherhood Trapeza, we drove again to the site of the future Holy Resurrection Cathedral. With a Moleben, Metropolitan VOLODYMYR blessed the Press-centre, and this before the Wonder-working Icon of the Theotokos of Pochaiv, brought by Archbishop VLADIMIR. It was a blessing once again to be able to venerate this holy Icon. There were present in this hall a number of displays by local ecclesiastical artisans; there was a programme of entertainment by children and youths. His Beatitude sat to one side, and people took the opportunity to approach him, to take the blessing, and to be photographed with him. He is much beloved. In discussing the site with Metropolitan ONOUPHRY, and Archbishop MARK, I understood that the Government had made a public demonstration of giving the property to the Church. However, the property is in an industrial area, with only a small resident population nearby ; and the Government also is charging $2,000,000.00 for the clearance of the scrub-trees on this land. After returning to the Lavra for a short time, we were driven to a concert-hall in the city, where a performance of Archbishop HILARION’s Oratorio The Passion According to Matthew was given in honour of Metropolitan VOLODYMYR. It was also the first performance of this work in Ukraine. At the end, Archbishop HILARION’s work received strong applause, and he was quickly surrounded by many of the audience. Beyond my own favourable reaction to the Oratorio as music, which includes many liturgical melodic references, I am additionally impressed at its presentation, because I can see how this music can be a vehicle for basic catechesis as well. It presents the Passion, and it includes a meditation on the events. After this, there was again time to eat, and to retire.

On Tuesday, 24 November, there was a Meeting of the Holy Synod, and we waited for its conclusion to depart for the west. I was not able to do anything active for some hours because I had awoken with a badly irritated (allergic) eye. The day offered the others an opportunity to visit in the Lavra, and to attend to necessary matters. After dinner at the Trapeza, and being invited by several bishops to visit their dioceses, we began preparations for departure. However, on this day was a Session of the Seasonal Synod, and the ending time was not predicted. We talked, and prepared, and then waited at the Metropolitanate for the ending, and for Metropolitan ONOUPHRY to be ready. Because there were elections of bishops on this day, there was extra time required, and it passed into supper-time, which we were offered by the nuns in the general trapeza of the Metropolitan’s Residence. Upon the completion of the Session, at 1800 hrs, we had the opportunity to speak, in the central entrance, with Metropolitan ONOUPHRY, Archbishop MARK, and even Archbishop HILARION, as he entered to speak with Metropolitan VOLODYMYR. After the talking, we began our departure, and in due course managed to pass through the full Kyiv rush-hour. We arrived finally in Chernivtsi at 0230 hrs, and were able to sleep some time after that. Father Oleg and I were to stay at the Metropolitanate, and Protodeacon Nazari with his family.

On Wednesday, 25 November, we arose, and ate brunch together later in the morning. After no little talking, we went our separate ways : Metropolitan ONOUPHRY to his office-work, Father Oleg Kirillov for a tour of the city (guided by another Priest Oleg), and Protodeacon Nazari and I on a visit to several cottage-industry vestment-making enterprises in the area. What is significant about each of these enterprises is that the women who are directing the businesses are also employing many local young women to work at an acceptable rate of income. This helps them remain in their home villages, and saves them from the temptation to leave for the west, and to a likely very degraded way of life instead. At the end of all these rounds, we met again at the Metropolitanate Trapeza for supper, and then a reasonably early retiring. It is useful to understand that there is a large Romanian-speaking population in the Diocese of Chernivtsi. It is also a fact that this diocese has managed to care for the Romanian-speakers pastorally, and both bishops are able to speak well in Romanian. This area is the ancestral homeland of many of our Orthodox Canadians.

On Thursday, 26 November, there was an early departure at 0700 hrs, for the Divine Liturgy in Kelmentsi, a Bassarabian town, 160 km distant ; and from there, it is only 15 km to the Moldovan border. It was the Feast of St John Chrysostom (O.S.), and in this county seat there had been a big renovation to St Michael’s Church. The Temple itself is not very big, but it accommodated that day several hundred persons. There were rather more standing outside, as well. It was a blessing that the sun was shining at all times. Before the Liturgy, Metropolitan ONOUPHRY and I did the prayers of re-blessing, and sprinkling with Holy Water. The Divine Liturgy was served by the two bishops, and about thirty priests, including the local Dean. The singing was led by a small choir that accompanied the Metropolitan, and Metropolitan ONOUPHRY’s Protodeacon Vyacheslav was the only deacon serving this day. The people were very glad to receive not only the blessing of Holy Water, but also icon-prints from Mt Athos, and anointing with blessed oil. Food was also provided out-of-doors to all that came. After a pleasant dinner for the visitors in the adjacent hall, we returned to Chernivtsi. After a two-hour pause, including some errands, we departed for another village, to the west of Chernivtsi. It was Bishop MILETII who drove us to the home of another Dean, Vasili, and his Matushka Maria (who was celebrating an anniversary), and which, I was told, is only 35 km from Putna Monastery in Romania. It seems that the border is now easily passable, in both directions. We spent several hours at this home, over supper, with five local priests in attendance, and we discussed many aspects of Church life. This included the comparison of the relationship between Church-and-State in both countries. After much of such talk, we finally adjourned, with the customary Russian Good-by, and we set off for home. We arrived quite late at the Metropolitanate.

On Friday, 27 November, we took an early breakfast, and we departed for the Pochaiv Monastery of the Dormition by mini-van. It takes a long time to travel this (to Canadians) short distance, because there are no express-ways, and there are many villages, with the one, two-lane highway. As we travelled, we were told that every year, for the Feast of the Nativity of the Fore-runner, Metropolitan ONOUPHRY leads a Cross-procession from Chernivtsi to the Kreshchatik Monastery 40 km to the north of the city. Between 10 and 15 thousand participate every year. They depart at 0600 hrs, and arrive about 2200 hrs. I was reminded also that there are many people who, for one or another feast, will walk to Pochaiv. We arrived in Pochaiv at noon, and were greeted by the Dean and his assistant. Archbishop VLADIMIR was still in Kyiv. We made our reverences to the main Relics of the Monastery : the Original of the Wonder-working Icon of the Theotokos; the Imprint of the Footstep of the Theotokos ( and we drank the water that has risen from this Step for more than 800 years) ; and we venerated the Relics of Sts Job and Amphilochii of Pochaiv. It continues to imprint itself on my heart that the Holy Hand of St Job is still warm after 300 years of resting in the Reliquary, at the Entrance to his former Cave-residence. It was pointed out that this Lower Church beside which is this Cave, and the halls leading to it, are so damp that the art-work on the walls must be renewed every 30-40 years. After this, we were given lunch with the Dean in the Abbot’s quarters, which included many reflections on the recent visit of the Wonder-working Icon of the Theotokos to Canada. We also took this opportunity to present the Gramota and Medal of St Tikhon of Moscow to be given in absentia to Archbishop VLADIMIR on his return. After this, we were given a general tour of the Monastery, with a historical explanation of the situation of the various Holy Relics, and persons. This took some time, and it included a visit to Holy Trinity Sobor, which was raised by the then Abbot Anthony (Khrapovitsky), who was followed immediately by Abbot Evlogy, both of whom were, later, bishops in post-revolutionary Western-Europe. Because the Archdiocese of Canada had decided to give to the main hosting parishes a Spisok (being a copy blessed by being touched to the Original) of the Wonder-working Icon of the Theotokos of Pochaiv, which we that day purchased, we again had to wait for the completion of the blessing (with touching to the Original), and the wrapping of them for travel. We also had the opportunity briefly to encounter, and to greet the Hieromonk Gabriel, and the Monk Ioann, who had accompanied the Icon on its Progress across Canada. And so, in the early evening, we left for Chernivtsi, where we arrived at 2130 hrs, and were greeted by Metropolitan ONOUPHRY with supper. Then we retired.

On Saturday, 27 November, we rose, and took breakfast at 0900 hrs. Others stayed in Chernivtsi, but Father Oleg drove me to Boian to venerate the Wonder-working Icon of the Theotokos in that village. This Myrrh-giving Icon began to do so during the times of Communism, when there was strong pressure against the Church. Once the myrrh began to come, the former Parish Temple became a Monastery. Now, it is served by a Sisterhood of 140 women, many of whom also do work in an Orphanage, which we also then visited. Father Oleg, the driver, explained that this Monastery in Boian, about 25 km from Chernivtsi, is also a destination for an annual Cross-procession with the Metropolitan. The Orphanage to which we drove is a part of the Men’s Monastery of 90 monks by the village of Bancheni. Archimandrite Longin established the Monastery about 15 years ago, and the Orphanage about 12 years ago. They all at present care for 250 children from all parts of Ukraine, from infants to those in early adulthood. The very neat, and clean, modern quarters house several children per room, and each nun cares for up to seven children. The male monks share in the work, but in a different manner. Their education is seen to on the premises, and everything is new, and up-to-date. The atmosphere is clearly that of a family, despite the large numbers. The children call all the male monks “tato” (papa), and the female monks “mama”, and there is visible peace, and joy, and very normal behaviour among them. A number of the children have visible physical, or mental disabilities. Some are suffering the consequences of being children of addicts. There is on-the-spot medical supervision, as I saw. All the resources are provided by the monks, nuns, and private supporters of the Orphanage. This is all in stark contrast to the state-run orphanages (called “Internat”) which I have seen elsewhere. And it is still these state-run orphanages that send the children to the streets at age 16. Any Church-connected orphanage tries to keep the children until such a time that the children are able to look after themselves. This Orphanage is yet different beyond all this. Archimandrite Longin has legally adopted all the children, so as to offer them all life-long protection, and support. As a result of this work, Father Longin has been given by the President the Medal “Hero of Ukraine”, and a DVD has been produced in association with this recognition. I visited the monastery itself, which is in an active building programme. A new, very large temple of many altars is being constructed outside the Enclosure. Its style, and size, remind one of the Ouspensky Sobor of the Trinity-Sergius Lavra. Its walls are all constructed, and it is roofed, but there is stuccoing yet to be applied, and the interior to be completed. The work seems to be being done primarily by the brothers themselves. There is as well a nearby guest-house that is half-constructed. The monks work hard, and pray hard. There are five Liturgies served every day in different parts of the Monastery, at several different times, and the Psalter is read continuously in an underground cave off a tunnel that connects two of the Churches. There is also a Skete at a distance, in which place a few monks live in a very strict Athonite manner. The 200 hectares of land are also worked by the brothers, and sometimes assisted by the children, and nuns (such as at planting, and harvest times). After this visit, we returned to Chernivtsi for a brief interval before Vigil at the Cathedral. This was served by three bishops, eleven priests, four deacons, and three choirs. The Cathedral was quite full, and there was a very large number of children. Serving, and singing are taken very seriously. Services are also polylingually Slavono-Russo-Ukrainian, and Romanian. After Vigil, we were given supper, and then retired.

On Sunday, 29 November, we departed for the Cathedral to serve the Divine Liturgy at 0930 hrs. The Liturgy was sung with two choirs, three deacons, eleven priests, and two bishops. At the conclusion of the Liturgy, I expressed our gratitude to Metropolitan ONOUPHRY for his part in enabling the Wonder-working Pochaiv Icon of the Theotokos to travel to Canada, by giving him the Archdiocesan Medal of St Tikhon. After the Divine Liturgy, we spent some time with the parents of Protodeacon Nazari, and then packed bags. We then drove to visit the Monastery of St Anne (Anina Gora) for supper. We arrived at this monastery, which is situated on a high hill that overlooks level grounds and fields in all directions (much as Pochaiv). But, before doing anything else, we visited the Temple, venerated the Holy Table, and the Holy Relics, and greeted all the male and female monks present. Some 15 years ago, the Abbess, Nonna, and a few other nuns made their beginning here on this hill-top by digging a cave in the hill-side, in which they first lived. Now there are some substantial buildings, and a partly-finished log-constructed residence for retired clergy. Then we went to the residence of the monks, where we were served supper. At this supper I also gave a Gramota to Bishop MILETII to express gratitude for his contributions regarding the Wonder-working Icon of the Theotokos of Pochaiv. The supper was a “classical” parting supper, in some ways. The various conversations reflected on the recent events, and other current situations. There was singing of many liturgical and spiritual hymns.

On Monday, 30 November, we rose, prepared for departure, and gathered with Metropolitan ONOUPHRY for the last time to take breakfast together. We made our departure as Vladyka was about to begin a Diocesan Assembly, and we drove for about 7 hours until we reached Zhitomyr, where we visited first the Cathedral. It was claimed to be the largest Temple in Ukraine, but it is probably only fifth-largest. Zhitomyr was once the main centre to the west of Kyiv, covering an area, before the Revolution, that now encompasses five neighbouring dioceses. Father Kirillov commented that this Cathedral is in similar style to, but a much larger version of, the St Alexander Nevsky Cathedral in Paris (rue Daru). Next to the Cathedral is the former Episcopal Residence, which has not been repaired beyond its façade, because of the expense (Zhitomyr was formerly a very strongly communist centre, and the recovery from that is very slow). The diocesan personal and fiscal resources are still limited. We then drove to the Enclosure of the Bishop’s Sobor Temple, which is an average-sized Temple. This, together with several buildings of offices, is where we were greeted by Archbishop GURII of Zhitomyr. This was followed by a short tea-time in his residence, because of our shortness of time. Despite brevity, it was nevertheless very pleasant, and Archbishop GURII expressed his hope that he could some time visit Canada, since he has never been out of Europe. Archbishop GURII is head of the Youth Department of the Ukrainian Church. He is also one of the Adjudicators of Theses of those graduating from the Academy. After this visit, we continued on for more than two hours, when we reached Kyiv. Father Kirillov was deposited at his hotel, and Protodeacon Nazari and I went to the Pecherskaya Lavra, where we spent the night, as did our driver, who returned to Chernivtsi at 0530 hrs in the morning.

On Tuesday, 1 December, we rose, and prepared for our final departure. At 1000 hrs, we visited Metropolitan VOLODYMYR to say good-bye, and then stopped in at the Office of External Affairs of the Metropolitanate, and of the Archpriest Nicholas Danylevych. We were given a quick, and light lunch, and taken to the aeroport. Arrival in Ottawa, by way of Frankfurt, and Toronto, was very late. It was clearer to me than ever before that such visits are important for us all, Ukrainians, and Canadians. Letters, e-mails and good wishes are not enough. It is a fact that we Orthodox are part of a large family, and such families require personal contact.

On departure, Metropolitan VOLODYMYR asked me when I was coming again. I replied that it is my hope, with God’s blessing, to return in August, with pilgrims. This is anticipated to be in the second half of that month.

With love in Christ,
the unworthy
+SERAPHIM
Archbishop of Ottawa, and of Canada