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Archbishop † SERAPHIM
Pilgrimage to Romania, Visit to
Kyiv
14-29 July, 2008
By God’s mercy, I was asked to accompany a local family, once again, to Romania, to visit some monasteries, and I willingly accepted. This time, however, the plans were adjusted. Before departure, it was announced that, sponsored by the Government of Ukraine, together with the Church, there would be a celebration of the 1020th Anniversary of the Baptism of Rus’. As a result, because of my responsibility as Chairman of the Department of External Affairs, and Inter-church Relations, Metropolitan Herman blessed that I cut short my time in Romania, and go to Kyiv for these celebrations. As I have become accustomed, there were the usual complications involved in trying to make a pilgrimage: delayed flights, delayed connexions, problems with communication, and a rather later-than-anticipated arrival in Bucharest. Before going to the Patriarchal Hotel of St Andrew, I and the two brothers who look after me went first to the territory of the Patriarchate. Since my last visit, there are very extensive renovations in progress. The entrance to the Patriarchal Palace is being renovated completely, and the Cathedral is covered with scaffolding. While at the Hotel, I observed briefly a programme of Trinitas TV, a television programme now offered by the Patriarchate. It is not yet available full-time, it seems. I know that there was also, at least in Iaşi, a full-time radio programme, with education, services, music, and commentary available, and I heard later that this has now been moved to Bucharest. I could not understand much, except that there was an interview of a priest about the Crossing of the Red Sea. On 16 July, the beginning of the first real day in Romania, the first visit was to the Antim Monastery, near the Patriarchate. Its Abbot, Archimandrite Mihail (Stanciu), greeted us warmly on this third visit, and he shared the monastery’s noon trapeza with us in his usual friendly, and respectful manner. He also gave a copy of his book on the Sense of Creation, a study of cosmology in the context of St Maximus the Confessor. On visiting the Temple, we venerated the relics of St Parasceva, and of the 40 Martyrs of Sebaste, and also two wonder-working icons of the Theotokos. After the visit, we drove out of the city, through the heavy traffic (more than ever), to the Monastery of St Dimitrie of Câldăruşani, built 400 years ago by Mattei Bassaraba. Here were the relics of St Dimitrie the Scholar, Metropolitan of Wallachia, formerly a monk of this idiorhythmic monastery. After attending Vespers, we had a guided visit to the museum, and then we visited the cemetery, where rests the well-respected Starets Sofian. We were told that St Callinic had said that one day, this monastery would sink. It rests on a peninsula in a lake. Recently, while drilling for water, it was found that, not far below the surface of the land, there is a large cavern. The main wonder-working icon of the Theotokos is connected historically with Bassarabian monks. It is understood that, once Moldova and Romania would in the future be reunited, this icon would be sent there, to New Neamţ. Again, we returned to Bucharest, and met yet more congestion. The driving experience showed that in Bucharest, any travel by auto requires a very generous allowance of time. This distance of about 30 km took almost 2 hours on return. Soon after return, we returned to the Antim Monastery for supper, and another conversation with Abbot Mihail. He indicated that there are now around 800 monasteries in Romania. It seems that the increase by about 300 in the last three years has in part to do with the departure of some small groups of monks from older monasteries, in order to establish new communities, often in more remote places. On the other hand, there were reports that among males, at least, for the last couple of years, there has been a reduction in the numbers of those entering monastic life. This still must be balanced with the dramatic increase in numbers of communities. And, of course, paying too much attention to numbers can be dangerous spiritually. On 17 July, we departed from Bucharest in the late morning. We had planned to make a couple of stops, but the traffic was very slow, including plenty of construction ; and so we made our way in our little Dacia extended cabin truck (called a Papuk, that is, a slipper) through Wallachia, to Piteşti, and to the Carpathian Mountains. On the very narrow, and winding highway, we passed a dam, and tunnel in these mountains, which had been built by the father and mother of the wife of one of these brothers. He was one of the primary engineers, and she a support-level engineer. In this pass, also, are the remains of a famous castle of Vlad Sepeş. Passing over the mountains, and descending to the plains of Transylvania, we came at last to the Monastery of St Nicholas of Sâmbăta, which was founded in the 17th Century by the Martyr Prince Constantine Brâncovianu. It was already late, but the old, small Church was opened for us to pray, as was the “Chapel”. In this Chapel (Pareclis), which is much bigger than the historic Church, I saw the familiar face of our Bishop Irineu, who had been the Starets of this Monastery during its major renovations. He was asked after by some of the persons we met. The Monastery of 40 monks has auxiliary buildings, including an ecumenical conference centre which seems to be prepared for conversations, and dialogues with Roman Catholics in particular (because there are many Roman Catholics in this area). After we were given supper, it was time to rest, and we were lodged in the building of the Academy of Sămbăta, outside the monastic enclosure, which is the one used for this ecumenical centre. At this particular time, there was an interesting display of the work of young learning iconographers, who worked with egg-tempera both on wood, and on glass, in the Transylvanian manner. On 18 July, the Hours began at 6 AM, and the Divine Liturgy at 0700 hrs in the Pareclis, which we attended. The Liturgy, as I have experienced it elsewhere, was very carefully served by three priests. One of the concelebrants was Archimandrite Teofil, who has been blind from birth, and 55 years in the monastery. He speaks French excellently. It was touching how the other priests were careful to lead him, in such a way that one would not necessarily notice the blindness of the one. Later, he said that he had been ordained exceptionally, and it is obvious that this exception was fruitful. He is 80, and full of joy, and hears confessions throughout the day, as do others similarly gifted. From here, we travelled about 8 hours through Transylvania, passing many towns, and cities, monasteries, churches, many sheep, cattle, horse-drawn carts, and very interesting landscapes, including views of the ruins of various castles. We also passed over a second dam, of a different sort, which makes a lake, at the end of which is Petru Voda, and which was built by the aid of the same parents. Petru Voda numbers some 80 monks at present, and there is the nearby dependency of St Panteleimon’s Women’s Monastery, with about 80 female monks, also. We arrived much earlier this time than at the last visit, and we were received by Starets Protosingel Iustin, now 88 years of age, in the manner of a loving father, who made certain personally that we ate, and found our sleeping-places. He had been, as customarily, hearing confessions endlessly, and while the queue of persons waited, they were singing spiritual songs. Once again, it was noticed that mobile phones do not work within the precincts, only in the field across the road. We retired, then, for a couple of hours, in preparation for the beginning of services at midnight. On 19 July, beginning at 1 AM, we prayed with the monks, and the rather many other pilgrims, and the services lasted around five hours. The service was in the Parclis, instead of the Church, because it had just been consecrated, and must be used daily for 40 days. This new chapel is well-iconographed, by the monks, and the service, which happened to be also to St Seraphim of Sarov, was long, and beautiful also. I did not serve, although I had been requested to do so, because it was late in the evening when we arrived, and I felt it was too late for making such arrangements with the bishop (Metropolitan Teofan) by telephone. The chapel was full, and there were many receiving communion. Afterwards, there was time for a rest, and then breakfast. We also prepared our belongings. On his return from an anointing, Father Iustin asked us to visit St Panteleimon’s Monastery, which we had hoped for, and we promptly did so. Abbess Iustina (formerly a physician) took us to the Temple, where the sisterhood gathered, and asked me to say something to them, which I did. Then, we were taken to see the new hospital, which is already filled with homeless widows, and nuns, and several women who are dying. In another section is the orphanage, which numbers 20 children. The hospital (like an auxiliary hospital or hospice) also has facilities for doing dentistry, and minor medical treatments. There is a monk, who is chaplain, and it was a joy to see the peace, and also the joy expressed on the faces of all the persons there, of all ages, monastic or lay. Then we were given lunch, and there was an extended spiritual discussion about the Christian life, and how to survive. After some time, we left, to return to the main monastery, where Father Iustin asked me to come to his cell for a conversation. This conversation lasted an hour or so, before we were able to make our departure for the Putna Dormition Monastery. This was a distance of only 200 km, which we managed in less than four hours. We arrived soon after the beginning of Vigil, and we met Archimandrite Melchisedek before the entrance to the Monastery. He escorted us to our rooms, and he ate with us. Then we went to the Temple for Matins. The Temple is being frescoed, and it is nearly completed. After venerating the relics of St Stephen the Great, and the wonder-working Icon of the Theotokos, I entered the Altar, and assisted at the remainder of the Vigil. I was glad to see Archimandrite Melchisedek, during the Great Doxology, tonsure eight men as Rasophores. One of them had not long ago received a PhD in the USA. At the end of Vigil, it was time to retire. Putna Dormition Monastery numbers around 100 monks, and it is very near the Ukrainian border, and not far from Chernovtsi (Chernouţi) in Ukraine. On Sunday, 20 July, the Feast of the Prophet Elias, I was collected from my room by Archimandrite Melchisedek at about 0830, and we crossed to the Temple for the Entrance, veneration of the relics of St King Stephen the Great, the Entrance Prayers, and vesting in the Altar. The relics of St Bishop Ghenadie are also in this Temple. The serving was to be in the Romanian manner, of course, and the serving was once again very carefully done, as was the singing. The Dormition Monastery, Putna, is known for its good, traditional singing ; and the Temple was full of standing, and kneeling faithful. It was given to me to preach, and I did this after the clergy-communion, as is the custom here. At the end of the Liturgy, I was also given to anoint all present, which means several hundred persons, and we left the Temple at 1345 for dinner. There was some discussion about the recent election of the new Metropolitan of Iaşi, Teofan, who succeeds there the now Patriarch Daniel. Metropolitan Teofan had not been considered to be a candidate, but he was nevertheless chosen. After a break for rest, at 1700 hrs, I attended ninth hour, Vespers, Moleben to the Theotokos, and Small Compline. I was taken to the monastic trapeza for supper, and then from about 1945hrs to 2230 hrs, I gave a presentation on monastic life, and on The Orthodox Church in America, and then answered many questions. Retiring was late. On Monday, 21 July, I left at 0700 hrs with Starets Melchisedek and others to serve the Liturgy at the Old Agapia Dormition Monastery, along with Metropolitan Teofan of Iaşi, and Moldavia. This celebrated the lives of two monk-priests newly canonised. I was being sent to this celebration on behalf of Archbishop Pimen of Sochava, who was away in Vienna for a heart-treatment, and I was representing him, with the blessing of the Metropolitan, and he put me in second place. In all, we were six bishops serving, with at least 40 priests, and three deacons. I was given to offer a word after the Gospel, and Metropolitan Teofan spoke after the clergy-communion. Before I spoke, the Metropolitan informed the faithful that this is the historic, traditional moment for a homily. Then there was the reading of the Synodal Act of Canonisation for the Hieromonks Raphael, and Parthenius, of Old Agapia Monastery. St Raphael was a wonder-worker of the late 16th Century, and St Parthenius a wonder-worker of the earlier 17th Century. According to the Pateric for Moldavia, both of the relics were uncorrupted, and there are written testimonies of this, but because of invasions, the relics were hidden in the mountains, in a now forgotten place. After the conclusion, there was a procession down the mountain to New Agapia, and then there was a dinner given for the major guests by the nuns of Agapia. Old Agapia numbers 40 nuns, and New Agapia 400 nuns. After this dinner, there was a brief rest period, and then there was an hour given for talking with as many nuns as could attend. At least half the number was present. Because of the warm day, and the small trapeza, Metropolitan Teofan blessed that we gather on an open grassy space under some trees above the monastery. He began the conversation with a fatherly commentary on the importance of reading the Scriptures, and then he gave me to speak, and to answer questions also about monastic life in North America. My translator at this time was the Archpriest Constantine (?), once of the Diocese of New York, then of Putna, and now a personal aide to Metropolitan Teofan. The whole experience was encouraging. In every way, Metropolitan Teofan was very hospitable, friendly, and open. After all the conversations, we left at about 1730, and arrived back at Putna at 1930, for supper. On return to Canada, I learned that our Mother Nil, in Rawdon, had known Metropolitan Teofan in France, when he was a student, and that she had already, then, greatly respected him. On Tuesday, 22 July, Starets Melchisedek departed early for the village of Salash (65 km in the near mountains, where I had served two years ago), to help with work on a bell-house, and other church buildings. I attended the Divine Liturgy from before 0700, and at 0930 went to breakfast, and conversation with some of the monks. Immediately afterwards, from around 1000 to 1315 hrs, I talked to and with a group of 45 young people, present at the Monastery from a seminary in Moldova. There was interest in Orthodox life in the west, the usual questions about Father Seraphim Rose, and questions about how to cope with the invasion of the sects, and the conditions associated with the various kinds of aid. During this time, a general rain began, the first since my arrival. After lunch, there were many conversations, and then I was taken by Father Crisostom to the Cell of St Daniel of Sihastria, nearby (it is carved in a great boulder). After that visit, we went to the Annunciation Sihastria-Putna Monastery, 3 km distant. This very old monastery, renewed only 8 years ago, has many established buildings, and 37 monks. The Abbot, Father Nectarius, invited us for a small refreshment, and conversation. Here, as elsewhere, in the context of current Church life, it is expressed that the monks perceive that the Church is under a cloud, or wrapped in fog. Then we returned to Putna for a quick supper, and the weekly Tuesday Protection Vigil. This vigil has been kept for some years, since the late Patriarch Teoctist had requested its being served weekly during a tense period. Because the problems were resolved peacefully, and the Church faces difficulties often, Putna has not ceased serving this Vigil of the Feast of the Protection weekly. The service began at 1900 hrs, and ended around 2230 hrs. It was beautiful, as usual, and heavily attended with pilgrims, of which there are many every day. On Wednesday, 23 July, I went to attend the Divine Liturgy at 0700 hrs, again on a day of rain. I was told that this was finally a summer kind of rain (frequent heavy thundershowers), and that previous rains had been more like those of autumn. The brotherhood begins to worship at 0430 hrs, but the Starets blessed my arrival for Liturgy. During the services, I have noticed that the faithful who are coming to Holy Communion are doing as is done in some Canadian parishes with Bukovinian origins, in that they approach the Chalice, and hold a lit candle. At the chalice, one of the monks takes the candle (obviously in case of fire). It has also been good to see again Father Teofilact, a monk who has been in this monastery since 1947, and who is now 82, although now in weakened health. After the Liturgy, I was taken up on to the scaffolding in the first, inner narthex area of the Temple. The frescoing of the Temple is nearing completion, and I was to survey the progress (which has been considerable in four years). The iconographer now is only Mihail Moroşan, his brother Andrei having reposed six months ago. This Temple probably lost its frescoes during one of the historic troubled times. Then, after break, Starets Melchisedek took me, with Father Crisostom (Driver), Father John (Interpreter), and Father Timothy (Photographer) to several churches, ending in Sochava. As we drove, we passed a large German-owned lumber-mill. There is great concern about the clear-cutting of forests, and the resulting floods, associated with such enterprises. While we had previously driven through the mountains, this clear-cutting was obvious in some places. The company says it is taking wood also from Ukraine, which is quite near here. We stopped first at Mălinuti, to see the restoration works on the Church of St Nicholas. Almost adjacent is the Church of St Stephen the Great, the temple being used pro tem at least. The Temple was built by St Stephen the Great, and its frescoes (from 1499) are being restored, and many are in excellent condition, and beautiful. The restoration was begun by a Japanese organisation, but it is now under the Ministry of Culture’s responsibility. Then we drove to Pătrăuti, to the Church of the Holy Cross. This was one of the earliest Temples constructed by St Stephen, in the context of the struggles with the Ottoman Empire. It has a significant fresco on the western wall of a cavalcade of soldier-saints, including also St King Stephen, and St Constantine the Great, who are all following the Archangel Michael, who is in turn pointing to, and leading them to the Holy Cross. This was a sign of the determination of St Stephen to meet Islam spiritually, and under the protection of the Holy Cross. The Temple of the Holy Cross is very small, and once was the Church of a monastic community. Now, it is part of a parish. The bell-house, rather old also, but of wood, holds a collection of cemetery Crosses, many of which, interestingly, have a circle around the upper portion, in the manner of the Celts. In the iconography of the various Temples from the 15th -16th Centuries, around the time of St Stephen, there is a constant pictorial theme: the connexion between St Stephen, and the Royal House in Constantinople (he married a Paleologos). He tried, in various ways, to help the Patriarch under the Ottomans, through circuitous means. He also supported Mt Athos, Jerusalem, and St Catherine’s in Sinai. From there, we drove to Sochava, to the Monastery of St George, to venerate the relics of the Martyr John the New. This temple is from before St Stephen, and very large. There the frescoes are far-advanced in their restoration. We visited also the pareclis of the Monastery, which is also in the process of being frescoed by Mihail Moroşan. Leaving the Monastery, we stopped briefly at a small nuns’ monastery which is in a state of disrepair, and which was committed to Archimandrite Melchisedek to put in order, and then we drove back to Putna. There, we had supper, and I, with Fathers John, and Timothy, were driven the three kilometres to the Putna Sihăstria Monastery, where I was to speak with the brotherhood. This lasted from 2000 to 2230 hrs, when we returned to Putna for the night. On Thursday, 24 July, I again rose to attend the Divine Liturgy. Then, near noon, we departed for a visit to several “painted monasteries” in the area. First we went to Suçeaviţa, then to Moldeviţa, and finally to Voroneţ. All of these monasteries were built up in the time of St King Stephen, or of his son, Petru Rareş, which is to say the 15th - 16th Centuries. There is a general restoration of the iconography in progress, and the frescoes, both interior, and exterior, are fresh-looking, beautiful, and awe-inspiring. They are prayerfully, and wonderfully painted, with a programme characteristic of the time of St Stephen. Included in every Temple are: the Last Judgement on the exterior western wall; Sts Constantine, and Helen ; various military saints ; the votive scene showing who built the Temple, and offered it to the Lord ; and many more. Common to all, also, is the demonstration by St Stephen, or his son, that the clear intention is to continue the Orthodoxy of pre-fall Constantinople. All the monasteries we visited were of women, and under the care of Archimandrite Melchisedek, as the Exarch for them of Archbishop Pimen. He cares for at least eight such communities. In some cases, these historic monasteries pose problems because of the number of visitors, or the condition of the structure, and sometimes there are also built separate monastic quarters nearby. During the day, the rain, which had been heavy, became torrential, and perhaps unprecedented. This was more than just summer rain. Streams rose, and flooding began, and power-failures began also. The storm continued unabated into, and through the night. This perhaps may be the remains of a hurricane? On returning late to Putna (the visits were not without being prolonged by hospitality, and conversations), we ate quickly, and there was a Conference with the Brotherhood, and visiting Moldovan Seminarians, until almost 2300 hrs, and then retiring to bed by candle-light. During the night, beginning already before the Conference, there was considerable thunder, and lightning, which lasted until at least 0300 hrs. There were power failures, and this lasted through the following morning. On Friday, 25 July, I arose for the last time this visit for the Divine Liturgy at Putna. At the end of the Liturgy, I met the Priestmonk Adrian, 96 years old, a living Confessor, who was tortured in prison, and who was part of the Burning Bush Society. Then, we went to breakfast in the Guest-house, and then to inspect damage. The Monastery of Sihăstria Putna was isolated by a washed-away bridge, and there were roads that were inundated, as well as homes, and fields. It was reported that more than 20 litres per square metre had fallen, and the same was yet to come. It was painful to see. Because of deforestation in places, of course, there were also land-slides. Still, some of the previously-constructed precautionary drains did function well enough, and some tree-planting had helped hold the soil nearby. By the time we had returned to the main Monastery, we found that Bishop Miletii from Chernivtsi (Chernouţi) had arrived. Archimandrite Melchisedek welcomed him, and then walked him around some of the monastic buildings, while I heard a confession. Then followed lunch, and further touring of the work-shops, and the Cemetery, and then it was time to leave. In typical style of Orthodox hospitality, we were delayed as long as possible. Then came the drive to the border, passing over the very swollen Sireţ River. The border took extra time because of computer failures, and we then arrived in Chernivtsi, and were greeted by Metropolitan Onouphry. After a brief interval, there was time for eating, during which Bishop Miletii left by auto for Kyiv. We then retired for the night. On Saturday, 26 July, I was given breakfast in my room early, and then we departed for the aeroport, to fly to Kyiv. On arrival, we were met by two friends of Metropolitan Onouphry, Senators Edward, and Michael. We were taken to the Nationalnii Hotel, where we were to be accommodated. This, and the Hotel Kyiv nearby gave hospitality to all the delegations, and the two Patriarchs were housed in a large residence across from both. After preparing ourselves, we went out to a restaurant in the nearby Podolia, and then returned to the hotel for some further organisation. This included meeting Archbishop Gurii, who was to be my “guardian angel” until my departure. Our van then took us to the aeroport, where we met Metropolitan Volodymyr, many other bishops, and clergy, and also Prime Minister Yanukovich, and in time greeted Patriarch Aleksy II on his arrival. This was followed by a very rapid move to the Kyiv Caves Lavra, where big crowds were waiting to greet Patriarch Aleksy and Metropolitan Volodomyr. It was a time also for greeting the rest of the Ukrainian bishops, and many Russian bishops as well. Others of the invited ones were accompanying Patriarch Bartholomew I. After the greeting, and the initial Moleben before the Ouspensky Sobor, the Patriarch and Metropolitans went into the Sobor briefly, and the other bishops, having found each other in the crowd, then departed for St Sophia’s Sobor. Here was an outdoor reception, à la fourchette, and a speech by President V Yushchenko, and by Patriarch Bartholomew. Both were principally pleasant greetings. Then it was time to return to the hotel. It was at this time that I met Father Vladimir Alexeiev, one of our delegation. The local organisation was quite good. On Sunday, 27 July, I departed the hotel at 0745, to be taken by Archbishop Gurii to serve, at the Vladimirska Gorka, a level, grassy place on the upper banks of the Dnieper River, and facing east. As always, security was very strict. Still, there were very large numbers of people who attended, although most were kept at a substantial distance. Patriarchs Bartholomew, and Aleksy were greeted at 0830 hrs, both vested together, and the Divine Liturgy began. It was served in Slavonic, and in Greek, and with a certain blend of the typicons. Every Local Church was represented, except Cyprus. Present also were Archbishops Jeronymos of Greece, and Anastasios of Albania, Besides, there were also Metropolitans Volodymyr of Ukraine, and Philaret of Byelorus. As might be expected, there were small problems because of different languages, and customs, but all was well. Following was a dinner at the Brotherhood Trapeza of the Lavra. There were also speeches, and gift-giving soon after the beginning of dinner. Then, at the conclusion, Patriarch Aleksy gave a passionate word about Orthodox Unity in every way, and the meal ended, and the time for the departure of Patriarch Bartholomew, with his rather large delegation arrived. Because of time, the delegations were not expected at vigil, so there was time for some rest, and some conversations. By this time, there were reports of considerable flooding in western Ukraine, around Ivano-Frankovsk, as well as in Maramureş and Moldavia, in Romania. It has been said that this is the biggest storm in at least 100 years. In Kyiv, however, it began cloudy, and then began to be sunny. In the evening, our Archpriest Oleg Kirillov arrived from Toronto, and greeted me. On Monday, 28 July, we departed the hotel for the Divine Liturgy at the Pecherskaya Lavra before 0900 hrs, to serve before Ouspensky Sobor, with Patriarch Aleksy, Archbishop Anastasios, Metropolitan Volodymyr (his name day), Metropolitan Philaret, and at least a hundred bishops. There were remainders this day of the delegations of Alexandria, Jerusalem, Antioch, Georgia, Serbia, Bulgaria, Poland, Czechia, and OCA. The day was again sunny, and the whole Liturgy was both grand, and pleasant. This was followed in due time by a dinner, again at the Brotherhood Trapeza. Then came some congratulatory speeches for Metropolitan Volodymyr. His Beatitude shows clearly that he suffers from Parkinson’s Disease, but it is a slow advance. He forges on, and well, with a full agenda. Here, Archimandrite Zacchaeus, the third of our delegation, having arrived from Moscow, found me. Then we returned briefly to the Palace “Ukraine”, for a national celebration with singing, dancing, recitation, and instrumental pieces, for two hours. Then we moved on quickly to the Hotel Rus’, for the final formal, public name’s day banquet. At the close of the dinner, after another two hours, we returned to our hotel, where I was interviewed by a newspaper editor for over an hour, and it was finally time to retire. On Tuesday, 29 July, we were preparing for our departure. I had breakfast with Archimandrite Zacchaeus, and there were some conversations with some others as they were departing. I then hurried to collect my bags, as departure time was at 100 hrs, and I said my good-byes, as Archpriest Oleg Kirillov and I were taken by Igumen Nicholas to the aeroport. Our return to Toronto, by Aerosvit, was peaceful, and uneventful, and we gave thanks to God. Pilgrimages as a bishop are not the same as pilgrimages by lay-persons. Although there are sometimes doors that open that are otherwise mostly closed, it is not so easy for a bishop not to be treated as a “delegation” from abroad. As a lay-person, there are different obstacles to face, sometimes great ones, but a person may be freer to pray. Local, or distant, I recommend visiting monasteries, holy places, holy icons, holy persons. One is renewed, and encouraged in the heart. Love in Christ, |